timing belt installation of cd20t

[hyde]

Hi all am new here I just bought a largo and wanna change the timing belts wanna know how to install the belt and timing it

[noctribe]

hi welcome the lads will kindly assist u when one them picks this up, by ur name hyde are you the owner off the silver largo in hyde cheshire that keeps floating past me or the white highway star ?? im in hyde near gee cross i own the white highway star with the blacked out lights,

[N.r.g]

Hi and welcome. Here's a lil something I found a while ago.

First thing you need are the new belts

The cambelt kit I used is made by Gates part no. K015309XS. this includes the tensioner and idler. ( can't find the receipt but I think this was about ?50).

The fuel pump belt was by Blue Print part no. ADN 17530 this is just the belt as the tensioner was fine ( the fuel pump belt has much less load on it than a cambelt, they only use a toothed belt to maintain timing which is critical for a traditional diesel engine) (around ?25 + vat)

Gates also make a fuel pump belt and Blue Print also do a cambelt kit but I do not have part nos. for these?

You will probably also want to replace the three auxiliary belts as these need to be removed to do the cambelt and are quite cheap.

The sizes are as follows

alternator belt is 13x1125 power steering is 13x950 air con is 13x875 These are normal 'v' belts but are not common sizes so I had to order them.

Total cost for these three belts was about ?17.

I got most of the parts from Foreign Auto Parts in Gloucester (01452 526406) but I do not know if they do a mail order service, Blue Print seem to specialize in parts for Japanese cars so try to find a local dealer for them.Having said that any decent motor factor should be able to supply the parts you need but steer clear of halfords and the like as they will just buy from a local factor then add 30 or 40%!!!

The next thing you need is a two post ramp as most of the work is done from below, but remember that when the car is on the ramp you still need to be able to open both front doors! The car has decent jacking points front and rear to lift it on.

Now a you may begin!

Remove the center console, drivers seat, release and tip back the access panel under the passenger seat (the seat can be left on the panel).

Remove the carpet over the engine cover and unplug the three plugs for the seat belts and the temp sensor then unbolt and remove the two parts of the engine cover.

Now lift the car up and remove the middle and rear 'undertrays' and remove the engine bay fan complete with its frame.

Now is a good time to loosen the four bolts on the waterpump pulley and to loosen the bolt in the end of the crank which holds the bottom pulley (an impact wrench is really the only way to do this).

The three 'v' belts now need to be removed, the a/c belt and the alternator belt both have separate tensioners which need to be released and the power steering belt is tensioned by moving the pump so this must be released.

Now remove the waterpump pulley and the bottom pulley then remove the upper and lower cambelt covers and the bracket for the alternator belt tensioner and finally remove the outer metal plate on the camshaft pulley

Next re-fit the bottom pulley loosely and turn the engine to t.d.c using the crank bolt carefully (make sure the ignition is off otherwise the engine 'might' start!) check that the yellow mark on the cambelt cover backplate is aligned with the notch on the inner edge of the cam pulley (the mark is at the 9o'clock position as you look at the end of the cam).

Now carefully remove the bottom pulley with out turning the engine then you can unbolt the idler (lower right as you look at the front of the engine) and release and remove the cambelt tensioner (Note there is a spring behind the tensioner)(upper left) and finally remove the cambelt!!!

Carefully fit the new cambelt and idler so there is no slack in the idler side of the belt and without moving the crank or cam. Now fit the new tensioner with its spring and tighten the bolt in the middle(I found the spring did not seem to apply enough tension so I used an allen key in the hole in the tensioner to turn it a little more)

It is all ways a good idea to turn the engine one or two turns with the the crank bolt to check that it all lines up again with the marks before you put the belt covers back on!

Now just put it all back together!

The new 'v' belts seem a little tight to get on but are the nearest sizes that will tension up (the next length up is too long! I know I tried them!)

Almost forgot the fuel pump belt!

This belt is at the back of the engine running from the camshaft down to the fuel pump in its own cover

All I did with this was to remove the cover, release (but not remove) the tensioner then without moving the cam or fuel pump remove the old belt and fit the new one making sure any slack is in the tensioner side then turn the tensioner with a short screwdriver and tighten the bolt.

I am sure there are timing marks for this belt but as long as you do not turn anything whilst the belt is off there is no need to worry about them.

Then just put the cover back on and make sure the engine starts and runs OK.

One final thing you need to know as I am sure you will start the engine to check it is ok before you replace the engine cover? If the temp sender on the engine cover is unplugged and/or the engine fan is unplugged the oil light will stay on!! even though you may have enough oil and enough pressure!

[djmarcopolo]

for the rear one, make sure you have a feind to help, nissan made the tensioner with a screwdriver slot for winding the spring unlike 99% of everything else that uses an alan key its is an absolute nightmare to do alone

And DO make sure you change the idler, the one I have and also another I watched on fleabay gfo for £300 both had the idler bearings just drop out, when they do its a job you now have to do twice and it also gives the impression the head gasket has gone as you get tons of white smoke out the exhaust and the valves are being pressurised at the wrong time with fuel and they sound like they are trying to escape the engine

TIP

DIESEL PUMP BELT FITTING
Get a freind to hold a ring spanner on the retaining bolt then turn it a little at a time and get him to lock it off while you reposition and do that for 1.5 turns, then fit the cambelt then just release so the tensioner spring takes up the slack and turn the diesel pump a little with another ring spanner so the belt is tighT between the 2 pulleys, then tighten the retainer on the tensioner idler that will stop the belt getting excess slack in it

Took 3 hours to finally figure that out because everytime the tensioner jumps out of the screwdriver the spring inside pops off and you are back to the start each time
Look at viewtopic.php?f=4&t=2667

Theres a couple of pics of the rear belt, thertes a mark on each rear pulley, mark them with tippex and then on the belt mark a tooth count 36 teeth including the marked one as 1 and then mark the 36th tooth on the belt and then just line up the marks with the pulley ones if its a 2.0TD

[Cueball]

Hey. Welcome to the forums. some great help to be found here.

Cueball from Pembrokeshire.

[batman]

Hi ,new here
Having monster problem timing injecter belt on CD20T in a 1993 nissan serena .No timing mark teeth number seem to be any where near the mark.??
Motor running but very loud rattle and lots of grey exhaust fuel smoke.Thats on 30T spacing.

Allso cant access these images ?? "no authority to view ect " ?!

"Took 3 hours to finally figure that out because everytime the tensioner jumps out of the screwdriver the spring inside pops off and you are back to the start each time
Look at viewtopic.php?f=4&t=2667"

PLEASE HELP !!

[tttonyyy]

Welcome to the forum, some pics here too:

http://nissanlargo.info/wiki/Timing_bel ... eplacement

[Rossey]

What's happened to the wiki?

[mrfish85]

That's tttonyyy page. Here's the page for wiki.
The timing belt change is not on there but the manual explains all.
http://www.nissanlargofriends.co.uk/wik ... /Main_Page

[Rossey]

13x875 is way too big for the power steering.