Nissan Largo Friends

Hi all, I just got my first largo a 1995 mid engine 2.0diesel
When driving the temp gauge is all over the place and the heater doesnt work
i tride to look at the correct bleeding procedure but it says im not allowed.
also my eml is flashing and it stalls when selecting reverse

can anyone point me in the right direction
thanks
dave

Temp gauge likely is the connector or wire to the sender strip back until you find break. Heater not working either airlock, heater control solenoid or headgasket. To bleed just remove bung in the middle by the heater matrix fill expansion tank to top stick hose pipe in the large bung and bleed from the rear matrix and the front matrix via the small get everything brimmed and run engine. The large bung level may drop when first switched on top this up and put bung back on when it starts flowing out from the large bung. Bleed both heater matrix's again with the heater controls on FH both front and back by pressing and holding the up arrow until FH is displayed.


Stalling sounds like diesel pump issue check engine light can be used to diagnoise the fault codes using paper clip trick details on this site.

Did you purchase it like this as some are being sold that are lemons/abused

scoobydo wrote:Temp gauge likely is the connector or wire to the sender strip back until you find break. Heater not working either airlock, heater control solenoid or headgasket. To bleed just remove bung in the middle by the heater matrix fill expansion tank to top stick hose pipe in the large bung and bleed from the rear matrix and the front matrix via the small get everything brimmed and run engine. The large bung level may drop when first switched on top this up and put bung back on when it starts flowing out from the large bung. Bleed both heater matrix's again with the heater controls on FH both front and back by pressing and holding the up arrow until FH is displayed.


Stalling sounds like diesel pump issue check engine light can be used to diagnoise the fault codes using paper clip trick details on this site.

Did you purchase it like this as some are being sold that are lemons/abused

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

scoobydo wrote:Temp gauge likely is the connector or wire to the sender strip back until you find break. Heater not working either airlock, heater control solenoid or headgasket. To bleed just remove bung in the middle by the heater matrix fill expansion tank to top stick hose pipe in the large bung and bleed from the rear matrix and the front matrix via the small get everything brimmed and run engine. The large bung level may drop when first switched on top this up and put bung back on when it starts flowing out from the large bung. Bleed both heater matrix's again with the heater controls on FH both front and back by pressing and holding the up arrow until FH is displayed.


Stalling sounds like diesel pump issue check engine light can be used to diagnoise the fault codes using paper clip trick details on this site.

Did you purchase it like this as some are being sold that are lemons/abused

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

i bought it like that, i was told it just needed the idle turned up
how do i find the rear matrix, i managed to get the front to warm up a little bit, also can you tell me there the rear is powered from, controls light up and remote goes through all the functions but the fan isnt blowing, i checked fuses on drivers side and all are ok

There will be relays for the front and back fans you need to establish if you are getting 12volts to the rear fan and work backwards. No such thing as turn idle up I am afraid assuming it is drive by wire. The heaters and AC on these vans are very good so if only get a bit of heat then something is up.

i have been under the van and the only pipes i can find on drivers side going towards the rear heater are small hydraulic pipes with some sort of switch block on it, i looked behind the panel in the back and can see the heater fan and what appears to be a heater matrix , this is all cold, does anyone have a photo of the location of the hoses and bleed point

scoobydo wrote:Temp gauge likely is the connector or wire to the sender strip back until you find break. Heater not working either airlock, heater control solenoid or headgasket. To bleed just remove bung in the middle by the heater matrix fill expansion tank to top stick hose pipe in the large bung and bleed from the rear matrix and the front matrix via the small get everything brimmed and run engine. The large bung level may drop when first switched on top this up and put bung back on when it starts flowing out from the large bung. Bleed both heater matrix's again with the heater controls on FH both front and back by pressing and holding the up arrow until FH is displayed.


Stalling sounds like diesel pump issue check engine light can be used to diagnoise the fault codes using paper clip trick details on this site.

Did you purchase it like this as some are being sold that are lemons/abused

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

hi Dave, imcurrently working on some similar issues, the rear matrix pipes are located as follows..

look at the opening side of the drivers door, the pipes are located behind the sill approx 6-8inches to the left of the door opening side, assuming your stood up looking at the door. they're tucked quite far up behind the sill maybe 6 inches or so.

to get an idea of what your looking for, under the hood, to the right of the expansion tank, on the firewall, there is two pipes for the front heater matrix with a nipple in the middle. the rear set of pipes is identical. you'll need to be under the vehicle at least to the chest and look behind the sill to see the pipes.

the fan in the rear, seeing as you've found it is for air circulation, there is a mesh attached to the rear of the panel you remove to get to the fan, this on mine was clogged with about 5mm of lint, make sure to clean this and restore the full airflow to the rear. chances are the reason your not getting airflow in the rear is due to blockage on the filter, to test it easily, you can remove the grill from the front of the fan and then switch on your fans, you should get air flow from your top vents and lower vent, the fan is for suction only so you wont get anything blowing from there.

tomorrow I will be renewing my thermostat and flushing + bleeding the entire system, ill take some pics and upload them with some more instructions, it took a while for me to find the rear matrix bleed point too.

from what I understand from speaking to scoobydo (and he will correct me if im wrong) the bleed procedure is something of an art, personally I dont quite understand the steps but ill figure it out when I flush and bleed the system tomorrow during thermostat replacement.

what I believe though is you need to disconnect the rear matrix return pipe from the engine block and flush from one of the front pipes. but that's as far as my knowledge spans atm until tomorrow.

*edit* another thing I forgot to mention is my rear heating doesn't work also, which is why I am changing the thermostat and flushing/bleeding the system incase of blockages or a dodgy thermostat.

does your heating work in the front? and can you try (stolen from scoobydo) hold the temp up button until it says FH and then turn the fans down to 1, see if you get heat when the car is standing still and idling?

I found with mine, that doing the following restored a good quantity of heat to the front

from cold,

remove the radiator cap,
remove expansion tank cap,
remove the filler tube cap.
remove the centre bung on front heater matrix located in the bonnet space
unscrew the bleed plug on the top of the opposite end of the radiator
fill expansion tank and filler tube until coolant pours from the radiator cap,
replace radiator cap,
top up expansion tank and filler tube
squeeze the top radiator pipe until coolant comes out of the bleed screw
replace the bleed screw
top up expansion tank and filler tube if required
start engine, give it a few revs and turn it off again
check levels and top up if required.
start engine again, let the system push fluid round for a minute, and top up until coolant comes out of the top bung, then replace bung
top up filler tube.

it was at this point I remembered I had to bleed the rear matrix

so I removed the bung, and coolant came out, so I replaced the bung and re done all of the above, its a bit of a piss around the way I did it as I was trial and error troubleshooting but I have het in the front for now, the back will be sorted hopefully tomorrow

The rear heater not working could be that the pipes were corroded in the past and previous owner bodged it but linking the flow and return at the block. You should be able to see the pipes really easily as mentioned above. Nothing difficult about bleeding these, but lots of people purchase vans with inherent problems and you end up having to unbodge