Nissan Largo Friends

hi im paul got a largo highway star 1996 20td had plenty done on this bus already now bloody thing keeps stalling cleaned a plate gonna tackle egr tomorrow any suggestions

Hammer mod + rocket resistor mod fixed it for me

Welcome to the forum!

had this bus 3 1/2 years now god cant think what I haven't done to it here is some of the work its been fully serviced
all new breaks front and back parking sensors
full alpine stereo up grade
tv in the dash
tv in the roof
new starter motor
new front shocks
new front link bars
new rear link bars from Nissan ouch
new new rear shocks that hold the body
new alternator
new sensors temp engine temp and a few others
all new tyres again for the 5th time national tyres kept putting car tyres on it chewed them up in no time now gone commercial all good so far
fitted front and rear
had new cam belt fitted
built in freeview
sat nav built in Bluetooth and dvd fitted all 12 disc multi changer in the boot
2000 watt amp Rockford fosgate 4000 watt sub and power cap to run it all
air con re gas
new retro 3 spoke alloys
had to put bodykit back on front and side skirts also resprayed them
had diagnostics done no faults believe it or not had diesel pump out and tested came back with no faults cleaned out a plate cleaned egr cleaned all air pipes
and the bloody bus keeps bouncing the revs I love my largo but its starting to test my patience now any help would be wicked cos im truly out of ideas oh order'd parts to do diesel pump 420 omh mod cannot think of any more jobs ive done on it but that's quite a bit so far oh yeh changed the full exhaust system as mine was rusted to hell
im doing my best to keep my bus on the road

paulsully wrote:had this bus 3 1/2 years now.....{snip}

I take it you just mean new member then lol, thought by the post title you'd just got a largo

Are you sure there's no fault codes at all? have you read them yourself & if so what "all clear" code do you get?

(sorry if I'm teaching granny to suck eggs so to speak, just want to make sure there's really no codes) normally there's at least 3 associated with the "usual" stalling cause so if there really is an all-clear being shown then I'd suggest something other than the resistor mod might be in order

Welcome to the forum
code read it ? cutting out could be crank sensor depending on codes.
power cap ? hate the damn things. add another battery. to make power you need power. power caps suck power, another battery is power and not pretending to be power lol.
havent seen a proper system build with a cap yet and ive seen some mega systems. hence i run a secondry battery just for my amp.

NRG the way I've always seen caps is they provide the current for very short sharp hits of bass, end enable you to run a smaller, lighter & more easily routed cable to power the amp without risking drop out. (the peaks are only a tiny percentage of the total time of a tune, so its not worth running a huge cable to cope with 100% of the amp's requirements when you could run a much thinner cable between battery & amp that would cope with 99% of current requirements & have the huge cable just between the cap & amp. let the cap/caps store the current for the remaining 1%...

Hard to describe, but it makes sense in my head lol actually speaking of head, it's like having a 100l header tank of water over a stupidly powerful shower. It gets filled with the normal 15mm pipe & for 99% of the time the shower only uses enough water that the pipe could supply it, but when you hit the powershower button the consumption is above what the pipe could supply, but the tank provides the short hit of loads of water, & then when you go back to normal shower the tank slowly refills again.

Really, most systems don't *need* a cap because their cabling is up to supplying the current anyway, but it's nice to know that if a huge beat does hit & want more juice than the wiring can supply, that there's half a second's worth of juice already stored up right next to the amp.

had auto electrician code read it and gave me the print out 0 codes then a couple of months later bus started to stall and revs keep bouncing up and down it only bounces the revs when started in the morning once its warm shes fine so I had it read again still no fault codes on the print out sheet so gonna try hammer mod see what happens

I think before you go there it would be sensible to see if unplugging a few sensors makes a difference, like the crank position sensor (connects to loom right by #1 injector) - it should run without it. Same with the injection timing lift sensor.

Hammer mod may very well make it much worse (too far to the front of the engine and it'll start bouncing up and down in RPM).

Agreed, only go as far as hammer or resistor mods when you already have the dreaded 18, 21, 22 combo.

well start my 20 ltr diesel in the morning revs bounce up and down when shes warm idles perfect 800 rpm so thinking hammer mod will cure this if im thinking right