Nissan Largo Friends

Hi all, I've got a 96 largo, and having a whale of a time trying to fit the fuel pump belt. I'm sure I have the front belt timed properly, but I cant figure out how to do the fuel pump timing at the back.
My pulley has a T anda N on it, but all I can find is stuff about an "A" mark.
At the moment I'm planning on hitting it with a sledge hammer in fustration!

BTW, in the deepest darkest depths of Essex (southminster)

Usually with fuel pumps T = turbo N = normally aspirated

From threads here I understand there should be 36 teeth between timing marks? I'm also going to be finding all this out the hard way in a couple of weeks...

HTH

right time up front crank pulley second notch then go to rear of engine and on the camshaft sprocket you will see a dot at about 1 to 2 oclock and on pump pulley there is N and T , stands for normally asperated and turbo. S o put n at bottom and if your new belt has got white lines on it count how many teeth there are line to line,if not you need 36 teeth from cam dot to t dot on pump if it has got lines on and theres 36 it goes on dot to dot.Hope that explains it for you. Oh and front belt is 43 teeth dot to dot

Well, managed to get it all done (I ended up starting from square 1 and getting a [relatively] smoothly running engine in about 7 hours!)
Notsure where I went wrong the first time around, I just seemed to do everything the same as before and it started working!

100% about the markings between teeth at the back 36 is the magic number!

That is good news.

Just been looking at my mates Largo as he's got it all apart for belts, like Jimmy says 36 teeth dot to dot on the pump and 43 notch to dot on the front cambelt (once the front pulley is off the lower gear has a visible notch in it for timing). Gates kit K015309XS belt has two white lines 43 teeth apart, perfect

I think the reason people talk about 41 teeth is that with the Nissan autodata manuals they show tooth 0 on the dot, and count from there not including the last tooth - so it's 41 teeth between marks - the same as 43 teeth including marks.

7 hours you must have been serving your time on it lol. and tony yes your correct about 41 and 43

I swear I am going to drive this thing off a cliff! Everything seems to be running ok, but when I actually drive, it starts to overheat...and then cool (as if the thermostat is opening) then overheats, and cool and so on.
I'm sure its not a head gasket, although I've not had a gas check done, but my concern is that when idling, it seem fine, even when I put high revs on it.

And a slight concern as lots of people say the winter/summer switch isnt found on diesels.....but I have one.....ummmmmmm

if your talking about the cable operated valve to the right of header tank and slightly below then that is heater control valve. Try beeding system but make sure both front and rear heaters are set to full heat as this will open the valves. good luck also see bleeding on forum

If its over heating and not visibly leaking water the thermostat is probably seized. At least that was the issue with my Nissan Serena.
It builds up enormous pressure behind expansion cap because if the tstat doesn't open the coolant boils it's way directly from the head through the expansion tube up to the expansion tank (highest point).

Incidentally, I still only get warm water from the front heater... but massaging the heater core hoses give hot air. Aside from the complex cooling circuit I think it is to big a capacity 13L for too small an engine.. so the thermostat is never totally open and you don't have as much flow.. oh, and the heater is way above the engine..

Bit of a strange design..